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KMID : 0604520190450020139
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2019 Volume.45 No. 2 p.139 ~ p.150
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Development of a Sunscreen Formulation that Increases UV Blocking Ability by UV Light
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Choi Min-Sung
Cho Hyeong-Jin
Song Kyung-Hee
Song Seung-Jin
Kang Nae-Gyu
Park Sun-Gyoo
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Abstract
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This study is investigated sunscreen formulation that enhances UV absorption efficiency by UV light. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is one of the most common UV filters. Many studies have been conducted about photostability of OMC. It is well known that under the UV exposure, trans-OMC could turn to cis-OMC, or produce various photoproducts including its dimers. Those chemical structure changes were understood as the reason of a decrease in UV absorption efficiency upon UV exposure. However, it was found that OMC and isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate (IMC) could even enhance its UV absorption efficiency when it was exposed to UV light in an environment similar to actual use. In order to develop sunscreen formulation that enhances UV absorption efficiency by UV light, emollient with high polarity and compatibility should be avoided from the formular. Those emollient seemed to prevent OMC or IMC from producing photoproducts under UV light. Finally, a sunscreen formulation (UV sensing SPF boosting formular) enhancing UV absorption efficiency by UV was developed by the UV activated SPF boosting technology, and the effect of the sunscreen was evaluated. in vitro SPF of the sunscreen was increased from 50.69 to 72.33 when it was exposed to UV light and its in vivo SPF (53.7) was 56.10% higher than that of the control sunscreen (below 34.4).
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KEYWORD
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ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate (IMC), photoproduct, photostability, SPF boosting
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